Cheese! In a tube! Woooo! I mean, really, it sells itself. Let’s do this.
This was going to be a Halloween post but I had trouble with it and had to revisit it later to get it right. I mean, really, nothing says ‘Happy Holidays’ like a champagne glass filled with hot blood pudding custard. Actually, everything does besides that. Anyway, I made hot blood pudding custard.
It’s been a long time since I’ve tried my hand at spherification, and I thought it was time to revisit the technique. I’ve done it three times before: the first meeting of Jet City Gastrophysics, my cooking session with Chef Ian Kleinman, and another time when I made some coffee caviar. One of the iconic photos from Modernist Cuisine is their Tomato Basil Spheres, so that seemed like a perfect place to give it another go around. It’s basically an Insalata Caprese that’s been liquified. Welcome to the future.
A while back I got this email in my inbox:
From: Scott Heimendinger
Date: Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 12:47 PM
To: Eric Rivera, Jeth Rollins Odom
Coming in a week or two for testing. I should have it for 2 weeks. Set phasers to KILL.
The chance to play around with the Polyscience SonicPrep? Nice! It took a little while longer to get the thing to Seattle (apparently Ideas In Food had it before us – how cool is that?), but it finally made it and Scott and I descended upon it to see what this new fangled contraption could do (Eric, alas, had already moved to Chicago by the time it arrived).
I’m beginning to think that the authors of Modernist Cuisine are evil. No, I’m not talking about the whole patent troll brouhaha. I’m talking about the recipes. Surely they are out to kill me. Why would I say such a thing, you might ask? Well, let me ask you: have you ever made their corn bread? No? And how about their bacon jam? I see. Let me try to explain.
Having gone over the price ranges of the tools and gadgets of Modernist Cuisine, let’s look at specialty ingredients next. The food additives used in Modernist Cuisine are considered safe. The names might be ‘science-y” and therefore unpalatable, but if you have no problem with sodium bicarbonate (baking powder) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C), you should be fine with these.
Now, brethren, let us turn to Book Four, Chapter Fourteen, Page Ninety-Five of The Work, and construct ourselves a tasty little omelet. Three components need to be prepared in particular: the eggs, the cheese, and the butter. Ah, the wonderful world of dairy gels. We shall go in reverse order.
That’s an egg yolk.
I got together with the guys at Jet City Gastrophysics to work on some projects. This time our theme was eggs. It reminded me of my favorite week at school which was egg week. We had a ton of eggs to cook in every which way possible but we never tried Sous Vide.
Scott was borrowing a machine that Polyscience lent him as well as another machine that he built…the guy is a freaking genius. He had the two baths set up at different temperatures in order for our creative juices to start flowing.
We tried to make a foam mayonnaise but it didn’t turn out the way we wanted….just need more practice and time and I’m sure we’ll get it. On the last foam mayonnaise Scott decided to torch it and it gave us a nice “foamlette” which I wrapped around some salami. It’s a work in progress.
Next up was another idea from Scott. ”We should deep fry one of these egg yolks”. I said, “yeah, we could do that it would be easy”. A little standard breading procedure and some seasoned flour later we came up with this. Perfect the first two times we tried it….it’s almost like I fry things a lot at work or something…..
These little things are incredible. You’ll be seeing them a few more times on this site (waiting on the pancetta to be ready).
Finally, Jeth brought over some bone marrow and he put it in the immersion circulator and cooked it for 45 minutes. When it came out we tasted it on bread with a little sea salt and it was amazing but then we all studied the texture which was very delicate and creamy. We were thinking about what else we could do with it. I thought, “well, we have egg yolks, you have sugar, and cream……let’s make a creme brulee”. Made those a few thousand times………but this time was with BONE MARROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We had to leave before the creme brulee was completed so Scott snapped this picture and sent it to me. His reaction to it leads me to believe that it was something I should make again. (PHOTO COURTESY OF SCOTT AKA SEATTLEFOODGEEK.COM)
[Originally posted at ericriveracooks.com]