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Category Archives: sous vide

Meeting Six: Eggs, Foamlette 1.0, and Bone Marrow Creme Brulee

16 Thursday Sep 2010

Posted by ericriveracooks in emulsions, foams, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Blog, Bone Marrow, Cooking Blog, Creme Brulee, Egg, Food, Recipe

That’s an egg yolk.

I got together with the guys at Jet City Gastrophysics to work on some projects.  This time our theme was eggs.  It reminded me of my favorite week at school which was egg week.  We had a ton of eggs to cook in every which way possible but we never tried Sous Vide.

Scott was borrowing a machine that Polyscience lent him as well as another machine that he built…the guy is a freaking genius. He had the two baths set up at different temperatures in order for our creative juices to start flowing.

We tried to make a foam mayonnaise but it didn’t turn out the way we wanted….just need more practice and time and I’m sure we’ll get it. On the last foam mayonnaise Scott decided to torch it and it gave us a nice “foamlette” which I wrapped around some salami.  It’s a work in progress.

Next up was another idea from Scott.  ”We should deep fry one of these egg yolks”.  I said, “yeah, we could do that it would be easy”.   A little standard breading procedure and some seasoned flour later we came up with this.   Perfect the first two times we tried it….it’s almost like I fry things a lot at work or something…..

These little things are incredible.  You’ll be seeing them a few more times on this site (waiting on the pancetta to be ready).

Finally, Jeth brought over some bone marrow and he put it in the immersion circulator and cooked it for 45 minutes.  When it came out we tasted it on bread with a little sea salt and it was amazing but then we all studied the texture which was very delicate and creamy.  We were thinking about what else we could do with it.  I thought, “well, we have egg yolks, you have sugar, and cream……let’s make a creme brulee”.  Made those a few thousand times………but this time was with BONE MARROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We had to leave before the creme brulee was completed so Scott snapped this picture and sent it to me.  His reaction to it leads me to believe that it was something I should make again.  (PHOTO COURTESY OF SCOTT AKA SEATTLEFOODGEEK.COM)

Eric

[Originally posted at ericriveracooks.com]

Meeting Three: Fruit Sous Vide

03 Friday Sep 2010

Posted by jethro in sous vide

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Tags

fruit

Late April found Jet City Gastrophysics gathering together around Scott’s sous vide setup to try out its effects on fruit. We collected and sliced a variety of fruits, which we then separately vacuum sealed and dropped in the water bath. What we found out:

  • Pineapple sous vide tastes like…pineapple.
  • Kiwi tastes horrible – like over boiled broccoli.  Definitely the biggest flavor change.
  • The membrane of the lemon becomes almost fish like in texture, but the flavor is still pretty sour.

The most promising of our candidates – plums.  The flavor was good, the color change was nice, and we could see the beginnings of interesting changes in the peel.

Pretty Plums Sous Vide

Pretty Plums Sous Vide

Further testing will need to be done with time and temperature to find out what looks and tastes best, but a great start.  I love this club.

Jethro

Sous Vide Apocalypse And The Mangalitsa Resurrection

01 Wednesday Sep 2010

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, sous vide

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

immersion circulator, Mangalitsa

It turns out that I am an excellent product tester.

Now, in my past, I have done some software testing, so I know a few things about pushing just that right combination of buttons that will make everything crash, mystifying the developers.  Turns out it’s not just software I’m good at breaking.

The $75 Immersion Circulator In Action

My sous vide, in better days

I am proud to say I was the first customer for Scott’s incredible DIY Immersion Circulator.  To be able to afford one of these, and have it sitting in your kitchen, ready to go – there’s just this incredible feeling of excitement and possibilities.  I  went down to Dick’s Restaurant Supply, grabbed a container, and proceeded to screw the circulator onto it so I could start cooking.

Oops

Oops.

I immediately broke it.  Not really aware of the pressure I was applying while screwing it on, the lucite tub grip snapped in half.  I really should have been paying more attention.  But, undaunted, I went to Lowe’s and picked up some hearty brand of plastic glue so I could put the pieces back together and continue on my merry way of sous-viding (can I use sous vide like that?  Eh.).

Unfortunately, the glue didn’t hold so I had to break the news (pun intended) to Scott to see if he could help me out.  Needless to say, he was, oh, impressed at my ability to render it useless so quickly.  But being the stand up guy that he is, he took it back and lovingly crafted another for me.

I was in sous vide heaven.  Perfectly cooked steaks, creamy egg yolks, incredibly tender leg of lamb – everything they say is true.  Sous vide cooking IS different and IS amazing.  I wondered how I ever got by without my little water oven sitting on my counter top.

After a particularly fun meeting of Jet City Gastrophysics, Eric generously offered me some Mangalitsa neck he had in his freezer.  I had recently seen a recipe from The Herbfarm for doing it sous vide on the Wooly Pig’s blog: sous vide at 165F for 14 hours.  Scott has done ribs for 72 hours, so I know the circulator can handle 14.  The key is to never let the heating coils sit completely out of water, or they will burn out quickly.  That was easily accomplished by filling the tub up to the rim. So I took the neck, seasoned her up, vacuum sealed the bag, and dropped it in the warm bath that would render her delicious.

Mangalitsa sous vide preparation

Preparing the Mangalitsa neck for sous vide

And I went to bed.

7 1/2 hours later, I woke up to an acrid plastic smell.  They’re currently doing construction nearby so I thought to myself in my pre-caffeinated state “What are they welding over there? That smells awful”.  Then I remembered I was cooking.

I leapt out of bed and bounded down the stairs, visions of fiery destruction blinding me.  The kitchen was intact, and there was no smoke, but there was my second immersion circulator, melting into the tub now 3/4 filled with water.

Immersion Circulator Meltdown Blues

Immersion Circulator Meltdown Blues

It seems as though enough water had evaporated so the upper half of the coils were exposed.  Since they were partially submerged, they didn’t burn out.  They just radiated heat on the plastic above them, perhaps for hours.  As the plastic melted, the box bent forward and the aquarium pump touched the coils, melting it against them.  Full on destruction.  Luckily, the house was fine, so as far as I was concerned, I dodged a bullet.  The smell of burnt plastic did permeate the house, so I opened all the windows and doors to get things back to normal.

I had to contact Scott again.  This time he was even more impressed with my abilities.  Now, let it be said, these are perfectly fine machines, actually fantastic machines, and he’s run his for hours at a go without a hitch.  Others have used his ingenious design without any problems as well.  And then there’s me.  I’d like to think I’m spurring further innovation in the field of culinary science.  And indeed, Scott is perfecting a Jethro-proof design so even I can cook sous vide.

Which brings me back to the Mangalitsa neck.  Luckily, the bag it was in never touched the coils, so it was intact.  I’m not sure what temperature the water was at by the time I pulled it out, but it had been cooking for around 7 1/2 hours.  Maybe not the Herbfarm, but long enough to salvage the thing:

Sous Vide Mangalitsa Neck

Victory From The Jaws Of Defeat

And yes, it turned out just fine.  Actually great.  Mangalitsa is delicious.  I wonder what it tastes like after 14 hours.  Maybe I’ll get a chance to find out – if Scott lets me.

Jethro

Sous Vide “Raw” Instant-Smoked Salmon

26 Thursday Aug 2010

Posted by sheimend in sous vide

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

salmon, smoked salmon, Smoking Gun

Raw Smoked Salmon-1
Low and slow… it’s true for sous vide, and its definitely true for smoking.  And, if you live in Seattle, you probably know that one of the worlds best smoked foods is salmon.  Smoked salmon has a wonderfully rich and concentrated flavor, but unfortunately it also has the texture of wet leather.  For this recipe, I used a Smoking Gun – a remarkable little device that creates a cold, concentrated smoke that can be captured in a container, or in this case, a vacuum bag [Disclosure: the Smoking Gun I used was a demo unit provided by PolyScience.]  The result: instant smoky flavor.  Then, we delicately cook the salmon to just above rare, which retains the fish’s buttery texture.

Total kitchen time: 25 minutes

Shopping list:

  • 2 salmon fillets, about 15mm thick
  • 1 tsp. smoked salt
  • 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  1. Preheat your water bath to 45.5°C.  [Note: Consuming undercooked fish blah blah blah.  Some people will cook their salmon at 39°C, but that’s a little rare even for my taste.  If you’re squeamish, crank up the temp to 52°C.]
  2. Remove the skin from the salmon fillets (reserve for frying, if you want.)  Divide the salt and pepper between the fillets and coat both sides.  Place the fillets, together or individually) into vacuum seal bags, but don’t seal them yet.
  3. Prepare an ice bath large enough for the salmon fillets in their bags.
  4. Load a Smoking Gun with hickory wood shavings.  Insert the exhaust hose into the open end of the bag and fold over the open edge to partially seal the bag.

    DSC_0416

  5. Turn on the Smoking Gun and light the wood chips.  Smoke the entire bowl into the bag, retaining as much smoke as possible.
  6. Holding the open end of the bag up, submerge the bag into the ice bath for a few seconds to condense the remaining smoke.  Seal the open end in the vacuum sealer.
  7. Cook the salmon in the water bath for 15 minutes.  Remove and serve.

Given the soft texture of the salmon, I thought it would be good to pair it with something crunchy.  I fried kale leaves in grapeseed oil for a few seconds per side (look out for major oil splatter!) and roasted asparagus with olive oil and rosemary salt.  I also fried the leftover salmon skin until it was slightly crispy and used it to wrap the asparagus.  This is one of my new favorite salmon preparations, and I can’t wait to see what else I can instant-smoke!

Scott

[Originally posted at SeattleFoodGeek.com]

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