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Jet City Gastrophysics

~ Exploring Modernist Cuisine in the Northwest

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Category Archives: blow shit up

Scott Bakes A Doughnut. A Six Foot Doughnut.

21 Thursday Jul 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

doughnut, Food Network, Monster Kitchen

Scott, the big TV star, at the Skillet Diner

Scott, the big TV star, at the Skillet Diner

Our very own Scott Heimendinger, aka Seattle Food Geek, made his television debut Tuesday night on the Food Network’s Monster Kitchen.  Scott functioned as – what else – a geek.  His job was to do the calculations on how to bake a doughnut that was six feet in diameter. This included filming a guy named HEIMENDINGER locating a HUGE OVEN and then filming HIM INSIDE of it.  I don’t think the Food Network thought that one all the way through.  Uh, yeah.

Friends and family descended upon the Skillet Diner to watch the debut on their flat screen TVs. Food and drink and laughs were served up in great quantities.  Everytime Scott came up cheers came from the peanut gallery, with hisses and boos when the opposing team came up.  It was a lot of ridiculous fun.

If you missed it, you can catch it at the following dates and times (on the Food Network, of course):

  • Jul 22, 2011 11:00 PM ET/PT
  • Jul 23, 2011 2:00 AM ET/PT
  • Jul 23, 2011 4:00 PM ET/PT

See if you can’t spot the Modernist Cuisine books laid out at one point.

Congrats, Scott, and don’t forget about us little people.

Experimentation Can Also Lead To Failure

07 Thursday Jul 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up

≈ 3 Comments

When exploring cutting edge cooking techniques, it doesn’t always work out.  For example, you can take a gorgeous, pricey lobe of foie gras…

Foie Gras

…completely trash it as a terrine…

Foie Terrine Fail

…and finally turn it into a ill-flavored goop.

Foie Goop

Ah, the learning curve.  I’m finding a sense of humor to be essential in times like these…

Jethro

Video: Electrified Pickles, High-Voltage Bacon & Shocking Soy Sauce

27 Monday Jun 2011

Posted by sheimend in blow shit up

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

bacon, electric pickle, experiment, science, sodium, soy sauce

By Scott

If you were lucky, your eighth grade science teacher demonstrated the surprising effect of plugging a pickle into a household power outlet. The pickle glows bright orange for a few seconds, then starts to smoke and smell like burning.  The phenomenon is caused by the electricity exciting the sodium (salt) in the pickle, causing it to emit light.

I wondered what other foods I could get to glow, so I tested pickled asparagus, limes, grapefruit, apples, hot dogs, sauerkraut, bacon, ketchup and soy sauce.  Keep reading to see the results.

Continue reading →

The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part I: Tools And Gadgets

19 Thursday May 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, centrifuge, combi oven, dehydration, liquid nitrogen, pressure cooking, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

dewar, digital scale, immersion blender, immersion circulator, induction cooktop, ISI ThermoWhip, Modernist Cuisine, pH meter, pressure cooker

“Modernist Cuisine” is not for most home cooks.
– Michael Ruhlman

“[Modernist Cuisine] looks cool and would be fun to flip through,” he said. “But I don’t need to spend six hundred dollars on a cookbook — I already know how to cook.” This led to my next question — in his opinion, were these techniques even appropriate for the home cook? “Sous vide is great for cooking vegetables and meat,” he replied. “But home-cooked meals are home-cooked for a reason. They’re meant for the home.”
– Domestic Divas

The truth is that this stuff is for the pros.
– New Yorker

Man, do these people bore me.  How uninspired. How defeatist.  How sad, pathetic, and totally lame.

0 To 60 in 90 Days

I started to cook in December 2009 – about 18 months ago.  I had no knife skills, didn’t know anything about Anthony Bourdain or Iron Chef, much less Mugaritz.  My refrigerator was empty save for old condiments.  I didn’t even notice the front right burner on my stove was larger than the others because I had never used it.

But once I started, I got way into it.  Within weeks, I had discovered avant-garde food.  By February 2010, I had ordered my first ‘molecular gastronomy’ kit and contacted Scott and Eric to form Jet City Gastrophysics. By March, I spherified my first liquids.  By August, I made the red cabbage gazpacho from The Fat Duck. And in October, just 10 months later, I began cooking from Modernist Cuisine, which wasn’t to be published for another five months.  I used their PDF excerpt.

Continue reading →

Eric Heads To Noma

24 Thursday Mar 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Cooking, Noma, Rene Redpenzi, stage

Our own Eric Rivera and his wife Mindy left early this morning for Copenhagen, where Eric will do a 10 day stage at Noma, the best restaurant on Earth. Not bad for someone still in culinary school! We wish you all the best, Eric, and can’t wait to hear all about it!

20110324-011625.jpg

GUNS, GUITARS AND GASTRONOMY: A Conversation with Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas of Alinea

22 Tuesday Mar 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Alinea, Aviary, Grant Achatz, guitars, guns, interview, Modernist Cuisine, Next Restaurant, Nick Kokonas

Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas

Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas

Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas of Chicago’s Alinea, named the best restaurant in the country, dropped by Seattle last week to promote their new book Life, on the Line.  Scott, aka Seattle Food Geek, was scheduled to do the interview but could not make it. I was asked to fill in for him.  Due to my complete lack of experience and professionalism, a freewheeling conversation ensued, and we discussed everything from their book, hunting, and music to their newest projects about to launch in Chicago: a restaurant called Next, and its companion bar, Aviary.

Nick Kokonas: So, Jethro’s not a food writer, he’s subbing for a food writer.
Grant Achatz: Thank god.
NK: So you know what that means?  Actual intelligent questions that we haven’t had.
So, any questions you don’t want to answer, just say “fuck you”, and whatever.
NK: You’re going to get like, twelve “fuck you’s”.
GA: Ah, come on…
NK to GA: By the way, I finally read that interview. Joe Satriani? That’s where you went with that?
GA: The guy can play guitar, man.
NK: Yeah, in ’84.

Continue reading →

The Thesis Dinner, Take One

14 Monday Mar 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, recipes

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Dinner, Jet City Gastrophysics, menu, thesis dinner

Our First Dinner Taking Shape

Our First Dinner Taking Shape

Back in December, we wrote about a special project we chose to embark on.  We decided we would take all of the knowledge we’ve gathered over the months working together and actually apply it to a full blown meal.  We christened it “The Thesis Dinner”.  Last week we finally got together and served a multi-course tasting menu to some close friends and family.

Eric And Scott Cooking Up A Feast

Eric And Scott Cooking Up A Feast

I don’t have any pictures of the dishes, as my camera (that is to say, iPhone) became the de facto DJ of the evening, playing a variety of Latin music, from Ranchera to Tango to Spanish rap.  Luckily, it was documented by a couple of attendees, and you can see the fruits of our labors here and here.

It was great fun serving the meal, and took all day to make it.  We arrived at Scott’s at 9am and left around 10pm.  My feet were killing me by the end of it.  I used to bartend and I forgot about how it is to stand the whole time.  But I suffered through it, poor little old me.

We’re making adjustments to the menu for a very special luncheon version coming up.  It’s an exciting step forward and I can’t wait to see – and taste – the final result.

Pressure Cooker and Ice Cream

Note To Self: Move The Ice Cream Station Away From The Pressure Cooker Station

Jethro

Kitchen Cryogenics: Playing With Liquid Nitrogen

13 Thursday Jan 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, liquid nitrogen

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

fudgesicle, ice cream, meringue, orange risotto, sorbet

LN2 Steam

Continuing my free fall into contemporary cooking techniques, I wanted to work with liquid nitrogen for some seriously cold cooking.  Liquid nitrogen is incredibly cold: −321 °F/−196 °C!  As it warms up, it boils away back into a gas, creating the exact opposite of a deep fryer – a deep freezer.  This is the stuff that urban legend says poor Walt Disney is frozen in for possible future reanimation.  My interests, however, are purely culinary.

Grabbing A Cold One

I wouldn’t be able to go to Sur la Table to get what I needed for this round of cooking.  I instead went to my local provider of industrial gases and inquired about purchasing a small amount of liquid nitrogen (also known as LN).  They said I couldn’t do it without the use of a dewar, a container especially designed for carrying and storing LN.  So, I did some research online, waited patiently, and was able to score a small 5 liter dewar for 40% off list price on eBay.

MVE Lab 5 Dewar

I first read Cooking Issues’ excellent Liquid Nitrogen Primer before I got started.  The three main takeaways:

  1. Do not keep LN under pressure in a closed container. It will explode. It can blow your hands off.  Thus, a proper dewar is necessary.
  2. You can suffocate on nitrogen and die and you won’t even know it.  Your body won’t warn you ahead of time.  You must be in a well ventilated area.
  3. It is really, really cold.  Avoid getting burned the same way you’d avoid hot oil.

It was a cold wet day in Seattle when I went to fill my dewar up with LN, but I still drove home with the windows down, the dewar tightly strapped in the back seat surrounded by towels, determined to not get killed before I froze some foodstuffs at home for my amusement.  I made it back safely and got down to some cold cooking.

Deep Freeze Frying

I placed a towel on my kitchen counter and placed a metal bowl inside of a larger metal bowl on top.  This was in case the LN was so cold the first bowl cracked open.  At least I would have a chance to get the thing outside if need be.  The window above the counter was opened for ventilation.  I decided to do a bunch of different things, some successful, others less so.  But it gave me a good insight into what’s possible.

First off was ice cream.  I was trying to make some ice cream bowls as Ferran Adria’s video showed in his talk at Google. At elBulli, they freeze an ice cream base on the underside of a ladle and then slip it off, creating a beautiful ice cream bowl to be filled with other goodies.  I, however, couldn’t get the bowls off correctly from the ladle – they were frozen solid on there, and they would always chip and break.  As my LN quickly evaporated, I decided to forgo that experiment after several tries and keep trying other techniques.

I scooped up some ice cream and threw it in.  It created a delicious little fudgesicle nugget, frozen on the outside but still creamy inside.

Fudgesicle Nugget
Creamy Chocolatey Goodness

Next up was an idea for a frozen spruce meringue.  I beat some egg whites and sugar together until they were fluffy, and then added some spruce spice I made last week.  It turned out great  – cold, crunchy, and creamy.  And forest-y.

Frozen Spruce Meringue
Creamy Frozen Spruce Meringue

Next up – orange slices.  After a quick freeze, I smashed them in a bowl to create an orange risotto.

Orange Risotto

Finally, I messed with some alcohol.  Alcohol doesn’t freeze in the freezer, but LN has no problem with it.  I took plum wine and poured it into a small bowl.  I then stirred in LN to create an Asian alcohol sorbet.

Stir It Up

Plum Wine Sorbet

For the most part, my initial foray into the world of liquid nitrogen cooking was very successful.  And addictive.  With instant fudgesicles, ice creams and sorbets, I can see it being a big hit during summer BBQs.   I know now someday when I get a new home, my kitchen will have a hot station, a cold station, and a very, very cold station.

Sake Sorbet

Sake Sorbet

Jethro

Meeting Eight: Putting It All Together

07 Tuesday Dec 2010

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, sous vide

≈ 1 Comment

Your Jet City Gastrophysics Crew

Your Jet City Gastrophysics Crew

Eric, Scott and I met for our eighth meeting at the end of November to start putting together everything we’ve learned together over the year for a master project.  A thesis project, if you will.

Putting It All Together

Putting It All Together

We’re pretty excited about it and we’ll post more about it in the future.  Otherwise, I was the happy recipient of the latest version of Scott’s DIY immersion circulator.  This one is cased in aluminum, otherwise known as ‘Jethro Proofed’ because of my unique ability to break things.

Circulator 3.0

Scott's Latest Version of the DIY Circulator

We also exchanged other early Christmas gifts as well as distributing our collection of foodstuffs amongst ourselves: fresh ceylon cinnamon from Costa Rica, homemade chocolates, transglutaminase, sodium alginate, Ultratex 3 and maltrodextrin.  Teamwork has its benefits.

Powder Exchange

Our next few meetings will be concerned with our developing thesis project, so we’ll wait to post on the project as a whole instead of meeting updates.  We’re looking forward to it!

Jethro

Sous Vide Apocalypse And The Mangalitsa Resurrection

01 Wednesday Sep 2010

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, sous vide

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

immersion circulator, Mangalitsa

It turns out that I am an excellent product tester.

Now, in my past, I have done some software testing, so I know a few things about pushing just that right combination of buttons that will make everything crash, mystifying the developers.  Turns out it’s not just software I’m good at breaking.

The $75 Immersion Circulator In Action

My sous vide, in better days

I am proud to say I was the first customer for Scott’s incredible DIY Immersion Circulator.  To be able to afford one of these, and have it sitting in your kitchen, ready to go – there’s just this incredible feeling of excitement and possibilities.  I  went down to Dick’s Restaurant Supply, grabbed a container, and proceeded to screw the circulator onto it so I could start cooking.

Oops

Oops.

I immediately broke it.  Not really aware of the pressure I was applying while screwing it on, the lucite tub grip snapped in half.  I really should have been paying more attention.  But, undaunted, I went to Lowe’s and picked up some hearty brand of plastic glue so I could put the pieces back together and continue on my merry way of sous-viding (can I use sous vide like that?  Eh.).

Unfortunately, the glue didn’t hold so I had to break the news (pun intended) to Scott to see if he could help me out.  Needless to say, he was, oh, impressed at my ability to render it useless so quickly.  But being the stand up guy that he is, he took it back and lovingly crafted another for me.

I was in sous vide heaven.  Perfectly cooked steaks, creamy egg yolks, incredibly tender leg of lamb – everything they say is true.  Sous vide cooking IS different and IS amazing.  I wondered how I ever got by without my little water oven sitting on my counter top.

After a particularly fun meeting of Jet City Gastrophysics, Eric generously offered me some Mangalitsa neck he had in his freezer.  I had recently seen a recipe from The Herbfarm for doing it sous vide on the Wooly Pig’s blog: sous vide at 165F for 14 hours.  Scott has done ribs for 72 hours, so I know the circulator can handle 14.  The key is to never let the heating coils sit completely out of water, or they will burn out quickly.  That was easily accomplished by filling the tub up to the rim. So I took the neck, seasoned her up, vacuum sealed the bag, and dropped it in the warm bath that would render her delicious.

Mangalitsa sous vide preparation

Preparing the Mangalitsa neck for sous vide

And I went to bed.

7 1/2 hours later, I woke up to an acrid plastic smell.  They’re currently doing construction nearby so I thought to myself in my pre-caffeinated state “What are they welding over there? That smells awful”.  Then I remembered I was cooking.

I leapt out of bed and bounded down the stairs, visions of fiery destruction blinding me.  The kitchen was intact, and there was no smoke, but there was my second immersion circulator, melting into the tub now 3/4 filled with water.

Immersion Circulator Meltdown Blues

Immersion Circulator Meltdown Blues

It seems as though enough water had evaporated so the upper half of the coils were exposed.  Since they were partially submerged, they didn’t burn out.  They just radiated heat on the plastic above them, perhaps for hours.  As the plastic melted, the box bent forward and the aquarium pump touched the coils, melting it against them.  Full on destruction.  Luckily, the house was fine, so as far as I was concerned, I dodged a bullet.  The smell of burnt plastic did permeate the house, so I opened all the windows and doors to get things back to normal.

I had to contact Scott again.  This time he was even more impressed with my abilities.  Now, let it be said, these are perfectly fine machines, actually fantastic machines, and he’s run his for hours at a go without a hitch.  Others have used his ingenious design without any problems as well.  And then there’s me.  I’d like to think I’m spurring further innovation in the field of culinary science.  And indeed, Scott is perfecting a Jethro-proof design so even I can cook sous vide.

Which brings me back to the Mangalitsa neck.  Luckily, the bag it was in never touched the coils, so it was intact.  I’m not sure what temperature the water was at by the time I pulled it out, but it had been cooking for around 7 1/2 hours.  Maybe not the Herbfarm, but long enough to salvage the thing:

Sous Vide Mangalitsa Neck

Victory From The Jaws Of Defeat

And yes, it turned out just fine.  Actually great.  Mangalitsa is delicious.  I wonder what it tastes like after 14 hours.  Maybe I’ll get a chance to find out – if Scott lets me.

Jethro

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