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~ Exploring Modernist Cuisine in the Northwest

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Category Archives: cookbook

Ferran In America

10 Monday Mar 2014

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, cookbook

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

elBulli, elBulli Taller, Ferran Adria, Modernist Cuisine

NYC Via The Brooklyn Bridge

NYC Via The Brooklyn Bridge

I had an opportunity to leave town for a week, so I decided to hop on over to NYC to visit old friends and catch up with the city. I didn’t do a major gastropocalypse tour this time around, hitting all the necessary landmarks like EMP, Momofuku, Per Se, etc. As far as food goes, this is what you need to know: Brooklyn is happening, and take your appetite to Martha, Glady’s, and Chuko. I also found an amazing old bar that is stuck in the 1970s and is a killer place to have a drink and be left alone, and in that spirit I’ll keep that one to myself.

But this post isn’t about food, it’s about Ferran. Ferran Adria, chef of elBulli, one of the great artists of our time. The Drawing Center in Manhattan had the first major museum exhibition to focus on his drawings and concepts. I, of course, went to see it.  Little did I know I’d soon see him myself.

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The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part IV: More Gadgets, Ingredients and Resources

17 Friday May 2013

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, cookbook, cooling, homogenization, hyrocolloids, marination, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

blast chiller, cookbook, Crucial Detail, food additives, MAPP flame, meat tumbler, Modernist Cuisine, plateware, rotor-stator homogenizer, Thermomix

By far the most popular post on this site is The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part I: Tools And Gadgets. Along with Part II: Food Additives and Part III: Cookbooks and Other Resources, they provide a handy compendium of what’s available (and affordable) for the home cook to delve into Modernist Cuisine.  It’s been a couple of years since they were posted however, and there are other gadgets, ingredients and whatnot I’ve collected since then that can be added to the list.  Therefore, let’s take a look at other things you can use to create cool funky food in your kitchen.

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Molecular Gastronomy Gifts For The Cooks In Your Life

28 Monday Nov 2011

Posted by jethro in cookbook, uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

gifts, Modernist Cuisine, Molecular Gastronomy

New Food Books

Are you looking for the perfect gift for your favorite foodie?  Take a look at our in-depth three-part series of the items used in cooking Modernist Cuisine from earlier this year:

The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part I: Tools And Gadgets
The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part II: Food Additives
The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part III: Cookbooks And Other Resources

The prices might have changed since so click on through to see what they’re currently going for. Some new books have also come out that deserve mention as well:

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Next At Home: Paris 1906: Caneton Rouennais à la Presse

23 Wednesday Nov 2011

Posted by jethro in brining, combi oven, cookbook, curing, old school, recipes, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

Duck Press, Escoffier, Grant Achatz, Industrialist Cuisine, Next Restaurant, nitrogen cavitation, Paris, Tour D'Argent

Duck Press

Last week, Next Restaurant released its first in what I assume will be an endless series of digital cookbooks featuring the recipes of all the courses of each incarnation of the restaurant.  They are currently in the midst of their third iteration of the menu, called ‘Childhood’. Prior to that was a ‘Tour of Thailand’.  And before that, the opening salvo to their concept, ‘Paris, 1906’.

Why Paris in 1906?  Kinda random, right?  No, not for these guys.  As they state in the opening of their iCookbook:

Cesar Ritz and Auguste Escoffier opened the Ritz Hotel in 1906.  A new upper class thrived; visiting the Ritz, along with restaurants such as Maxim’s, became something more than just dinner.  Part fashion show and part social scene, the restaurant was now the entertainment.

Paris, 1906 — Escoffier at the Ritz was an easy choice as our opening menu at Next.

Ah, Escoffier.  As Heston Blumenthal said, “We eat how we eat because of Auguste”. They decided to go boldly into the future by acknowledging the past.  I, too, have a fondness for what I jokingly refer to as Industrialist Cuisine.  And there is one dish on their menu in particular that exemplifies the restaurant as entertainment theme circa 1906: Caneton Rouennais à la Presse.  Why? Because they used a big old brass contraption to press an entire duck to get at its juices.  Entertainment, indeed.
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More On The Foie Fail

25 Monday Jul 2011

Posted by jethro in combi oven, cookbook

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

foie gras, konjac

Fully Rendered Foie

Foie gras after a stint in a combi oven

So a few weeks ago I totaled a gorgeous hunk of foie gras while attempting to make WD-50’s famous Knot Foie.  I failed the first step – making a traditional foie gras terrine, and then in my second step – trying to make my leftover foie stretchy to make a knot.  I referenced my copy of Larousse Gastronomique, the CIA’s The Professional Chef and the Internet to make sure my first attempt at a foie gras terrine was the right one.  But I decided in order to get the exact internal temperature, I should use my combi oven.

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The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part III: Cookbooks And Other Resources

01 Wednesday Jun 2011

Posted by jethro in cookbook

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Achatz, Adria, Blumenthal, cookbook, McGee, Modernist Cuisine, Nathan Myhrvold

Holding The Big Bad Book of Gastronomy

Roll Over, Escoffier, Dig These Rhythm And Blues...

In this last post of the covering the actual cost of investment in cooking Modernist Cuisine (having already covered tools and specialty ingredients), we’ll now turn to the actual recipes and where to find them.  The end game is just eating a mouthful of delicious food, yes?  These resources will get you started recreating the Michelin starred dishes of the world, plus help you gain the skill set to create your own unique dishes.

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The Modernist Cuisine Book Launch

24 Thursday Feb 2011

Posted by jethro in cookbook

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

book launch, hyperdecanting, Modernist Cuisine, Nathan Myhrvold, salt, Tom Douglas

Modernist Cuisine Book Launch

I was one of the lucky 100 or so people to attend the launch of the upcoming cookbook Modernist Cuisine in Seattle earlier this week.  It was held at the Palace Ballroom in downtown Seattle.  A small tasting plate was served as well as a couple of drink tickets for wine.  The pastrami was fatty and tender and delicious.  The Asian pear and apple chips were bright and sweet, without the nutty overtones from my batch of dragon fruit chips I made.

The Menu
The Dish

We were invited to take our seats.

The Seating Arrangments

Seattle chef (and Palace Ballroom owner) Tom Douglas was the MC for the evening.  He introduced Nathan Myhrvold, who took us through a chapter by chapter review of the five volumes of the book.

Dr. Myhrvold Going Over The Book

Dr. Myhrvold Going Over The Book, While A Woman In Front Of Me Senses My Phone Close To Her Face

He showed us a lot of interesting portions of the book: a full page photograph of E. coli; maps of regional BBQ styles from the US Southeast and curries of India that resembled battle maps with arrows going to and fro; a simple recipe for carrot soup using a pressure cooker and a blender as well.  And there were slow motion films using their state of the art camera capturing liquid nitrogen floating along a surface and a water balloon exploding.  The depth and breadth of the book is really staggering (you can see some of their films on YouTube).

He also tossed out little nuggets of info throughout his talk.  Two stuck out in particular.  One is the use of salt.  They studied it, and found a very simple ratio for proper salting: 1%, or .75% if you’re sensitive.  That’s it.  It’s so deceptively simple that I’m sure some people will take issue with it.  Cooking is generally so intuitive, that such direct explanations might make a cook feel like the magic, the artistry of cooking is being shelved for direct measurements.  I think it just makes it that much easier to make delicious food and allows the cook to focus on other components of their dishes to elevate their flavor and presentation.  As a matter of fact, Dr. Myhrvold pointed out that the book doesn’t go into detail about flavor pairing and that there isn’t a lot of research available on the subject.  I guess they have another book to do.

Another little trick he told us about is hyperdecanting.  To quickly decant a bottle of wine, pour it into a blender and blend on high for 30 seconds.  He said he did this to a bottle of Spanish wine given to him by Spanish royalty in front of them.  They were mortified, but after a blind taste test, they always chose the hyperdecanted wine.  They quickly called their winery in Spain and in rapidfire Spanish said “blahblahblahBLENDERblahblahblahBLENDER”.  That got a good laugh from the audience.

Afterwards Tom Douglas had the co-authors, Maxime Bilet and Chris Young, join Dr. Myhrvold on stage and had a Q and A session.  Questions were asked about health department codes (the FDA apparently doesn’t like unsolicited advice), self publication (publishers would have only run 2000, over 3000 have already been pre-ordered), and various other things that I can’t recall.  Tom Douglas wrapped it up and said he was getting a copy of Modernist Cuisine for each of his chefs.  That’s a boss worth working for!

People mingled a bit more, asking questions from all the chefs who worked on the book. A couple copies of the book along with some excerpts were also out for people to page through and look at.  Everyone finished their drinks, and then it was off into the rainy Seattle night.

A Cookbook Excerpt

Jethro

Cookbook: Herve This-From Molecular Gastronomy to Culinary Constructivism

20 Thursday Jan 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in cookbook

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Blog, cookbook, Cooking Blog, Dinner, Food, Herve This, Molecular Gastonomy, Recipe

A book from the father of molecular gastronomy.

I’ve been kicking around this whole “molecular gastronomy” thing for quite some time.  When I first heard about it I was reading about at all the cool presentations, shapes, and textures that were being displayed by chefs at numerous restaurants around the world.  I thought, “I want to cook like that one day…..I want to create art through food”.  I didn’t realize what these chefs were actually doing. I just thought it was for presentation purposes only.  I saw a video on youtube that showed Jose Andres hanging out with Ferran Adria and Chef Adria was explaining his spherification of olive puree,  I was amazed.

A few months later I saw Mario Batali and Anthony Bourdain talk in Seattle.  Mario Batali called molecular gastronomy fake, I was confused.  I respect all these chefs and what they do. I’m so far down the totem pole in this chef world that I’m a random bush that is hanging out across the field from the chef totem pole.  What to do?

Looking back at the whole thing I realize one thing. Mario Batali wasn’t talking about molecular gastronomy at all. He was talking about the chefs that turned “molecular gastronomy” into elaborate presentations, shapes, and textures. He had no issue with Ferran Adria but he had a problem with the guys trying to be like Ferran Adria without understanding the science behind what Chef Adria was doing.

Heston Blumenthal set me straight when he had Harold McGee on his show, “Kitchen Chemistry”. Harold McGee wrote a book called:

(I have more information on the book coming shortly….not finished yet)

and Heston Blumenthal said that this book changed cooking for him. It was written in 1984, I have the revised version that was written in 2004. This book answered the why’s, how’s, and debunked all those things you have probably heard growing up, “sear the meat it traps in the juices”……these book say, “no, that’s not true”……the books are correct, you are not (I believed the same thing, I suck…haha). Chef Blumenthal listened, learned, and innovated so did Ferran Adria….look where they’re at now.

I did my research, bought my books, and started to read them (I have a lot more on the way). I began reading Harold McGee’s book and then I started doing more research about how the term “molecular gastronomy” came to be.  It was an easy way for Herve This and his science partner to market this science of cooking easily.  What you have probably heard from the mainstream is that molecular gastronomy is the crazy presentations, shapes, and textures of food. The mainstream doesn’t get it…..it’s like Elvis when he first came out.  The teenager’s loved him and parents immediately thought he was the devil. We often shun the things we do not understand or feel uncomfortable with.

My ignorance lead me to this world of molecular gastronomy………OH PRETTY COLORS!!!! My curiosity has lead me to understand and respect it.  Herve This’s book, “Building a Meal from Molecular Gastronomy to Culinary Constructivism” has broken down all of these things into plain English for me.  Call it stupid, call it ridiculous, call it what you want.  There is a science behind cooking. The days of me looking at something and saying, ‘it’s done”, are over.  The days of believing someone simply because they have been doing it that way forever are over…..if they can’t tell me WHY then I will question them…..woo hooo I’m 4 years old all over again!

Herve This labeled it molecular gastronomy to make it easy to understand and market but he has also debunked over 25,000 culinary beliefs since he has started his research.  This book shows how to boil an egg to perfection, you might say, “well you just boil it for 10 minutes with a soft boil/hard boil/or whatever technique I’ve been using for years”.  Do you want to perfect this process? I do, so I listen.  Chefs have listened to the words of Herve This and they have become extremely successful in the culinary world, I want the same.

Full speed ahead, let’s build a meal “molecularly”!

BUY THIS BOOK…………..now!

Eric

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