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Cookbook: Herve This-From Molecular Gastronomy to Culinary Constructivism

20 Thursday Jan 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in cookbook

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Blog, cookbook, Cooking Blog, Dinner, Food, Herve This, Molecular Gastonomy, Recipe

A book from the father of molecular gastronomy.

I’ve been kicking around this whole “molecular gastronomy” thing for quite some time.  When I first heard about it I was reading about at all the cool presentations, shapes, and textures that were being displayed by chefs at numerous restaurants around the world.  I thought, “I want to cook like that one day…..I want to create art through food”.  I didn’t realize what these chefs were actually doing. I just thought it was for presentation purposes only.  I saw a video on youtube that showed Jose Andres hanging out with Ferran Adria and Chef Adria was explaining his spherification of olive puree,  I was amazed.

A few months later I saw Mario Batali and Anthony Bourdain talk in Seattle.  Mario Batali called molecular gastronomy fake, I was confused.  I respect all these chefs and what they do. I’m so far down the totem pole in this chef world that I’m a random bush that is hanging out across the field from the chef totem pole.  What to do?

Looking back at the whole thing I realize one thing. Mario Batali wasn’t talking about molecular gastronomy at all. He was talking about the chefs that turned “molecular gastronomy” into elaborate presentations, shapes, and textures. He had no issue with Ferran Adria but he had a problem with the guys trying to be like Ferran Adria without understanding the science behind what Chef Adria was doing.

Heston Blumenthal set me straight when he had Harold McGee on his show, “Kitchen Chemistry”. Harold McGee wrote a book called:

(I have more information on the book coming shortly….not finished yet)

and Heston Blumenthal said that this book changed cooking for him. It was written in 1984, I have the revised version that was written in 2004. This book answered the why’s, how’s, and debunked all those things you have probably heard growing up, “sear the meat it traps in the juices”……these book say, “no, that’s not true”……the books are correct, you are not (I believed the same thing, I suck…haha). Chef Blumenthal listened, learned, and innovated so did Ferran Adria….look where they’re at now.

I did my research, bought my books, and started to read them (I have a lot more on the way). I began reading Harold McGee’s book and then I started doing more research about how the term “molecular gastronomy” came to be.  It was an easy way for Herve This and his science partner to market this science of cooking easily.  What you have probably heard from the mainstream is that molecular gastronomy is the crazy presentations, shapes, and textures of food. The mainstream doesn’t get it…..it’s like Elvis when he first came out.  The teenager’s loved him and parents immediately thought he was the devil. We often shun the things we do not understand or feel uncomfortable with.

My ignorance lead me to this world of molecular gastronomy………OH PRETTY COLORS!!!! My curiosity has lead me to understand and respect it.  Herve This’s book, “Building a Meal from Molecular Gastronomy to Culinary Constructivism” has broken down all of these things into plain English for me.  Call it stupid, call it ridiculous, call it what you want.  There is a science behind cooking. The days of me looking at something and saying, ‘it’s done”, are over.  The days of believing someone simply because they have been doing it that way forever are over…..if they can’t tell me WHY then I will question them…..woo hooo I’m 4 years old all over again!

Herve This labeled it molecular gastronomy to make it easy to understand and market but he has also debunked over 25,000 culinary beliefs since he has started his research.  This book shows how to boil an egg to perfection, you might say, “well you just boil it for 10 minutes with a soft boil/hard boil/or whatever technique I’ve been using for years”.  Do you want to perfect this process? I do, so I listen.  Chefs have listened to the words of Herve This and they have become extremely successful in the culinary world, I want the same.

Full speed ahead, let’s build a meal “molecularly”!

BUY THIS BOOK…………..now!

Eric

An Evening With Bob Tate & Friends

05 Wednesday Jan 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Bob Tate, Cooking, Food, Knife Sharpening, Seattle

A little over a year ago I did a post on knives after Bob Tate came to my culinary school to do a talk (here is the original post…click).  My friend, Jethro (click), knows Bob Tate and offered to get our little group of gastronauts together to go see the art of knife sharpening up close and personal.

I still use Bob’s tips to this day and it was really amazing to be invited into his home where he does the knife sharpening and has honed his own skills. He trained under Bob Kramer who has his own signature series for Shun so it was honor just to be around Mr. Tate to at least get a glimpse into the mastery that is knife sharpening.

We each brought a knife for Bob to sharpen for us…… Seriously Jethro…..a pink knife?!?!?!  Uh….. Anyway, Scott brought his shiny Shun knife (middle) and I brought my money maker Mercer knife (right) for a little honing and sharpening action.

Bob showed us a few new projects he was up to and how he can create serrated knives and even sharpen them.  It was amazing to watch him take a $2 knife and turn it into something usable and extremely sharp…..Eric “likes” the degree of sharpness.

I have a really weird attachment to my knife. It’s not expensive or special but it’s been along for the ride while I’ve moved through and cut thousands of things with it.  When I first started using it I had no idea what I was doing…..it was too big……it was heavy…..it wasn’t my 7 inch santoku that I was used to using.  I stuck with it and now I treat it like a really great friend of mine.  I sharpen it myself because I don’t trust anyone else to even touch it but when I was in the home of Bob Tate I let him have it……I guess it’s kind of like dropping your kid off at a baby sitter…..weird stuff.

Bob sharpened up the pink knife and while I saw him doing it I noticed how he moved the knife over the belt gently.  He asked me not to film his finishing process and not really talk about it since it was something he had learned from Bob Kramer and it really is the difference from him doing something amazing or just entrusting your knife to that random clerk at that one store with the French name downtown.

He finishes and tests every knife by doing the newspaper test.

That folks, is the sharpest pink knife in the world!!!! He finished Scott’s knife and my knife and it was like picking up your dog from the groomer….looks new….smells nice (what?)……knife is all excited to cut stuff……

Look at that shiny new edge.

No matter where I go, where I cook, or what knife I buy, Bob Tate is my knife sharpening guy.

Eric

Video: DIY Cotton Candy Machine from a Blender and a Tin Can

10 Friday Dec 2010

Posted by sheimend in uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

cotton candy, dangerous, DIY, Food, insane, machine, Molecular Gastronomy, video

Do try this at home, but don’t burn your house down!

This turned out to be one of the more dangerous machines I’ve ever built.  The goal was to make a cotton candy machine out of parts I had lying around.  The finished product was an aggressive, 1/2 horsepower, 4000°F beast of a machine that lasted long enough to prove itself before dying of awesomeness.

If you want to build a cotton candy machine at home, all you need is:

  • A tin can, like a tuna or dog food can
  • A drill with a very small drill bit
  • A motor (ex, your drill, an old CD player, a blender)
  • A heat source, such as a propane torch, a lighter, or the coils from an old toaster
  • A bucket to catch the cotton candy, or alternately a sheet of paper to wrap around the assembly
  • Sugar

Follow the steps in the video to see just how easy this machine is to build.  Oh, and don’t forget… safety first.  My favorite part of this project was setting up a blast shield in front of the camera before we turned on the machine.

cotton candy build
Special thanks to Victor (@sphing) for filming!

Scott

Top Food Geek Christmas Gifts of 2010

03 Friday Dec 2010

Posted by sheimend in uncategorized

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Tags

christmas, Food, geek, gift, list, shopping

food geek christmas gifts
The season of giving is upon us, and that means it’s time to start Christmas shopping for the food geek in your life.  Let’s face it: he (or she… but who are we kidding, it’s a he) is hard to shop for.  He already owns 4 kinds of microplanes, he’s got more cookbooks than Barnes & Noble, and his spice rack is organized by atomic weight.  A waffle iron just isn’t gonna cut it this year.

For just that reason, I’ve rounded up the best and geekiest kitchen gifts of 2010.  And, if you’re feeling extra generous, I also threw in a few “luxury items” sure to induce a Christmas morning nerdgasm.

Books

2010 was a great year for cookbooks.  In fact, all of the books below are new this year, with the exception of Modernist Cuisine, which is available for preorder but won’t ship until March.  At $475, it’s not exactly a stocking stuffer, but you can spread out the joy by wrapping each of the five volumes separately.

  • Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking by Nathan Myhrvold, Chris Young, and Maxime Bilet – $475
  • Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes by Harold McGee – $19.23
  • Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine by René Redzepi – $32.97
  • Sous Vide for the Home Cook by Douglas Baldwin – $25.95
  • Cooking for Geeks: Real Science, Great Hacks, and Good Food by Jeff Potter – $20.71
  • Modern Gastronomy: A to Z by Ferran Adria – $43.90

Modernist Cooking “Ingredients”

If the food geek on your Christmas list is dying to pull off the latest techniques, he’ll need some ingredients.  I’ve found the WillPowder brand to be a great value for the price.

  • For spherification (you’ll need all three): Sodium Alginate – $27.69, Calcium Chloride– $15.08, and Sodium Citrate – $13.62
  • For gels: AGAR AGAR – $52.35, Methylcellulose F50 – $28.64
  • Thickeners: Ultratex 3 – $13.42, Ultratex 8 – $18.12
  • For foams: Versawhip 600K – $36.08
  • For powders: Tapioca Maltodextrin – $14.13

Essential Kitchen Gear

Who doesn’t like playing with new toys?  Over the last year, prices of induction cooktops have plummeted.  They are a great way to expand your stovetop capacity, and they’re extremely energy efficient for heating small quantities of food.

  • Max Burton 6000 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop – $99.99
  • Whip-It! Professional Cream Whipper – $49.99
  • Infrared Thermometer – $47.96
  • Distilling Apparatus – $55.12
  • Bernzomatic Self-Igniting Torch – $20.89 (fuel sold separately)

In My Dreams…

Some guys dream of sports cars, some guys dream of rotor/stater homogenizers.  Here is the equipment in the kitchen of my dreams.

  • Torbeo Hand-Held Homogenizer – $841.00
    For blending sauces into a consistency that is unachievably smooth using a conventional blender
  • Ultravac 250 Vacuum Chamber Packaging Machine – $4600.00
    Step aside, FoodSaver, this is a vacuum sealer for the big boys.
  • Polyscience Sous Vide Professional – $799.95
    Hands-down the best sous vide machine I’ve ever tested.
  • Vacuum Rotary Evaporator – $9230.00
    For distilling and extracting essential oils.  No more store-bought vanilla extract!
  • PacoJet – $3950.00
    Best known for making extraordinarily smooth and creamy desserts.
  • Freeze Dryer – $2,000-20,000
    DIY astronaut ice cream!
  • Centrifuge – $7000
    For separating and clarifying stocks and sauces.
  • Laser Cutter – $30,000
    For making templates, etching and cutting foods

Scott

Meeting Six: Eggs, Foamlette 1.0, and Bone Marrow Creme Brulee

16 Thursday Sep 2010

Posted by ericriveracooks in emulsions, foams, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Blog, Bone Marrow, Cooking Blog, Creme Brulee, Egg, Food, Recipe

That’s an egg yolk.

I got together with the guys at Jet City Gastrophysics to work on some projects.  This time our theme was eggs.  It reminded me of my favorite week at school which was egg week.  We had a ton of eggs to cook in every which way possible but we never tried Sous Vide.

Scott was borrowing a machine that Polyscience lent him as well as another machine that he built…the guy is a freaking genius. He had the two baths set up at different temperatures in order for our creative juices to start flowing.

We tried to make a foam mayonnaise but it didn’t turn out the way we wanted….just need more practice and time and I’m sure we’ll get it. On the last foam mayonnaise Scott decided to torch it and it gave us a nice “foamlette” which I wrapped around some salami.  It’s a work in progress.

Next up was another idea from Scott.  ”We should deep fry one of these egg yolks”.  I said, “yeah, we could do that it would be easy”.   A little standard breading procedure and some seasoned flour later we came up with this.   Perfect the first two times we tried it….it’s almost like I fry things a lot at work or something…..

These little things are incredible.  You’ll be seeing them a few more times on this site (waiting on the pancetta to be ready).

Finally, Jeth brought over some bone marrow and he put it in the immersion circulator and cooked it for 45 minutes.  When it came out we tasted it on bread with a little sea salt and it was amazing but then we all studied the texture which was very delicate and creamy.  We were thinking about what else we could do with it.  I thought, “well, we have egg yolks, you have sugar, and cream……let’s make a creme brulee”.  Made those a few thousand times………but this time was with BONE MARROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We had to leave before the creme brulee was completed so Scott snapped this picture and sent it to me.  His reaction to it leads me to believe that it was something I should make again.  (PHOTO COURTESY OF SCOTT AKA SEATTLEFOODGEEK.COM)

Eric

[Originally posted at ericriveracooks.com]

Instant Champagne.

03 Friday Sep 2010

Posted by ericriveracooks in carbonation

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Blog, Champagne, Cooking Blog, Dinner, Food, Molecular Gastronomy, Recipe

Bubbles baby. That’s what it’s all about.

I purchased a soda siphon and I have been working with it for a few weeks now.  Keys to success using a soda siphon…..finding the right temperature in order to have bubbly bliss in a carbonated creation.    Let’s just call this “Instant Champagne 1.0”.  Good things happened but ideal achievements were not met.

Eric

Soda Siphon Experiments Coming Soon……

27 Friday Aug 2010

Posted by ericriveracooks in carbonation

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Blog, Carbonation, Cooking Blog, Drinks, Food, Molecular Gastronomy, Soda Siphon, Sparkling Wine, Wine

I bought a soda siphon and I’m really excited to start working with.  I would like to combine some of the work we did with the whipped cream dispenser then turn it over to this apparatus in order to carbonate our drinks……what….I like bubbles!

Another thing I want to start working on is a good base for infused sodas.  Most sodas today are flavored with high fructose corn syrup and while there is a segment of the population that has a brain aneurysm when they hear about HFCS I just like the taste of real sugar.  If HFCS tasted like real sugar then I wouldn’t care.  Most sodas just have a simple syrup mixture which is just a 50/50 of water to sugar then the flavors are infused from there and most of the time they are artificial….I’m looking at you Coke and Pepsi.   While there have been the natural soft drinks that have come out (Jones and others) I feel like they have been missing something.   If my sodas take off I’ll promise not to burn Michael Jackson……

Another thing I want to do with the soda siphon is make sparkling wines. I realize that this process is achieved through secondary fermentation in the wine world but there are some wineries that do pump in CO2 without worrying about secondary fermentation.  I’m not a big fan of wine but wine that bubbles and sparkles?!?!?!?! You have my attention!

I’ll post my findings here over the next week so stay tuned!

Eric

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