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~ Exploring Modernist Cuisine in the Northwest

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Author Archives: jethro

Modernist Cuisine At Home: Combi Oven Roast Chicken

06 Monday Feb 2012

Posted by jethro in brining, combi oven, MC at home

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

combi oven, Modernist Cuisine, roast chicken

I’m reading (and cooking) through that massive tome that is Modernist Cuisine, and am currently at Book Two: Techniques And Equipment, Chapter Eight: Cooking In Modern Ovens, Section One: Cooking With Moist Air. It is here they put their first sentence that is entirely in italics: “Humidity governs the temperature at which food actually cooks“. This is an important point, and helps understand why things are cooking the way they are, down to your particular oven and location. This is covered in Book One on the physics of heat and water. The basic takeaway is that transferring heat from air into food is more even and efficient when water vapor is condensing onto cooler food. For example, onto a roast chicken.  Let’s observe.

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Eating In San Francisco: Benu

24 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by jethro in i ate there, uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Benu, Corey Lee, Restaurant, san francisco

Benu

When I was in San Francisco, I managed to score a seat at Benu, the two star Michelin restaurant in the SOMA district. It is headed up by Corey Lee, whose career has seen action in seven 3-star Michelin restaurants in England, France and the U.S. He was also the chef de cuisine at The French Laundry.  The Real Deal.  And, my first Michilen starred restaurant (Next doesn’t count, right?).

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Eating In San Francisco: Commonwealth

20 Friday Jan 2012

Posted by jethro in i ate there, uncategorized

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Tags

Commonweath, Restaurant, san francisco

The Kitchen At Commonwealth

I had the opportunity to try out some of the fine dining establishments of San Francisco while I was there.  My first stop after my flight was a burrito in the Mission district. It put a sudden end to that day’s culinary explorations, however; I was so stuffed I couldn’t think of taking a bite of anything at all.

The next day, I didn’t know where to eat, so I checked out the 26 new places to go at SFGate.com and SF Eater 38 and determined a couple of places to go. That evening, I found myself at Commonwealth at 18th and Mission (whose address is 2224 Mission Street – what’s up with that, San Francisco?).

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The LeSanctuaire Showroom

16 Monday Jan 2012

Posted by jethro in uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

glassware, kitchen tools, LeSanctuaire, online shopping, plateware, san francisco

I dropped down to San Francisco to spend the weekend and got an opportunity to visit the private showroom of LeSanctuaire.  LeSanctuaire is a provider of very high end tools, plateware and ingredients online.  It’s a great online site, offering everything from Tapioca Pearls for $2 to GastroVacs for almost $6000.  I was met by their Sales Manager, Fany, and she let me basically lose my mind as I was able to be in the presence of some very cool kitchen stuff.  They have many things that are sold exclusively through them, so it was amazing to see it in person. It was like a museum of fine kitchenware.

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That One Time We Became Caterers.

11 Wednesday Jan 2012

Posted by jethro in liquid nitrogen, that one time

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

catering, institute for systems biology, party, ultracentrifuge

Let The Show Begin!

Let The Show Begin!

We’ve hit a new milestone here at Jet City Gastrophysics: we’ve gone public.  When we received an invite to serve a dish at a company party for The Institute of Systems Biology in Seattle, we couldn’t pass it up. We put together a nice little dessert of Cryopoached Coconut Meringue with Powdered Strawberry.  We brought our siphons and strawberry dust.  They, being scientists and all, provided the liquid nitrogen.  A perfect match.

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Ultrasonic Cell Disruption, aka The Really New Cookery

06 Friday Jan 2012

Posted by jethro in emulsions, homogenization

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

cavitation, degassing, infusion, PBR, Polyscience, rapid barrel-aging, sonication, SonicPrep, ultrasonic

No Really, We're Cooking.

No Really, We're Cooking.

A while back I got this email in my inbox:

From: Scott Heimendinger
Date: Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 12:47 PM
Subject: Sonicprep
To: Eric Rivera, Jeth Rollins Odom

Coming in a week or two for testing.  I should have it for 2 weeks.  Set phasers to KILL.

-Scott

The chance to play around with the Polyscience SonicPrep? Nice!  It took a little while longer to get the thing to Seattle (apparently Ideas In Food had it before us – how cool is that?), but it finally made it and Scott and I descended upon it to see what this new fangled contraption could do (Eric, alas, had already moved to Chicago by the time it arrived).

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Scott Joins The Team At Modernist Cuisine

21 Wednesday Dec 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Follow Your Dreams, Modernist Cuisine, Scott Heimendinger, Seattle Food Geek

Scott Sketching Out A Meal

"Mmm...with this plan I'm certain to be hired at Modernist Cuisine..."

Our very own Scott Heimendinger, the infamous Seattle Food Geek, has landed a job across Lake Washington here in Seattle with the Modernist Cuisine team in Bellevue.  You can read all about it from the horse’s mouth:

Scott from Seattle Food Geek Is Joining the MC Team!
I’m Joining Modernist Cuisine, Officially!

So now Eric works at Alinea and Scott works at Modernist Cuisine. That’s pretty insane.  From our humble beginnings trying to figure out what this stuff is all about, these guys are now at the top tier of gastronomy in the US. I couldn’t be more psyched for them. A huge congrats to Scott and yet another example to keep following your passions.

And what about me?  I’m reminded of a quote by Woody Allen: “I don’t really care about commercial success – and the end result is, I rarely achieve it.” I’ll still forge these high end recipes in my home kitchen just, well, because.  Who knows – perhaps Anthony Bourdain needs a travel and drinking buddy.  I’m game.

Jethro

Gingerbread Pumpkin Seed Brittle and Candy Cane Cotton Candy

14 Wednesday Dec 2011

Posted by jethro in recipes

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

brittle, candy cane, cotton candy, gingerbread, holiday recipes

Gingerbread Pumpkin Seed Brittle and Candy Cane Cotton Candy

I threw a little holiday dinner party the other night where a guest had one request: “I want some godly gourmet goodies like you’ve been posting”.  Fair enough.  I started with a caramelized butternut squash soup (centrifuge, pressure cooker), a steak version of the Thanksgiving Stew from Modernist Cuisine (sous vide), and finally, dessert: gingerbread pumpkin seed brittle and candy cane cotton candy.  Where did I get that recipe?  I made it up!

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Molecular Gastronomy Gifts For The Cooks In Your Life

28 Monday Nov 2011

Posted by jethro in cookbook, uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

gifts, Modernist Cuisine, Molecular Gastronomy

New Food Books

Are you looking for the perfect gift for your favorite foodie?  Take a look at our in-depth three-part series of the items used in cooking Modernist Cuisine from earlier this year:

The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part I: Tools And Gadgets
The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part II: Food Additives
The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part III: Cookbooks And Other Resources

The prices might have changed since so click on through to see what they’re currently going for. Some new books have also come out that deserve mention as well:

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Next At Home: Paris 1906: Caneton Rouennais à la Presse

23 Wednesday Nov 2011

Posted by jethro in brining, combi oven, cookbook, curing, old school, recipes, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

Duck Press, Escoffier, Grant Achatz, Industrialist Cuisine, Next Restaurant, nitrogen cavitation, Paris, Tour D'Argent

Duck Press

Last week, Next Restaurant released its first in what I assume will be an endless series of digital cookbooks featuring the recipes of all the courses of each incarnation of the restaurant.  They are currently in the midst of their third iteration of the menu, called ‘Childhood’. Prior to that was a ‘Tour of Thailand’.  And before that, the opening salvo to their concept, ‘Paris, 1906’.

Why Paris in 1906?  Kinda random, right?  No, not for these guys.  As they state in the opening of their iCookbook:

Cesar Ritz and Auguste Escoffier opened the Ritz Hotel in 1906.  A new upper class thrived; visiting the Ritz, along with restaurants such as Maxim’s, became something more than just dinner.  Part fashion show and part social scene, the restaurant was now the entertainment.

Paris, 1906 — Escoffier at the Ritz was an easy choice as our opening menu at Next.

Ah, Escoffier.  As Heston Blumenthal said, “We eat how we eat because of Auguste”. They decided to go boldly into the future by acknowledging the past.  I, too, have a fondness for what I jokingly refer to as Industrialist Cuisine.  And there is one dish on their menu in particular that exemplifies the restaurant as entertainment theme circa 1906: Caneton Rouennais à la Presse.  Why? Because they used a big old brass contraption to press an entire duck to get at its juices.  Entertainment, indeed.
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