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~ Exploring Modernist Cuisine in the Northwest

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Category Archives: vacuum sealing

Extracts

17 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by ericriveracooks in dehydration, sous vide, vacuum sealing

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extracts

What do you need to do this?  Use vodka or better yet, everclear.   Depending on what you choose you can simply weigh it all out, can it cold, and place in the refrigerator for a few days then strain and you got yourself a nice bit of extract for sauces, marinating, baking, or whatever.   Some lend themselves better to going sous vide for about three to four hours.  So get to work, there are tons of crazy extracts for you to make!

Flavors I made today:

Saffron, Orange Zest, Candied Ginger (slice ginger thin, make some simple syrup and as it’s cooling down throw in the ginger then place in refrigerator for a day, take out ginger, dehydrate for 5 hours then toss in sugar with a little malic acid), Cocoa Nib, Adobo, Chili Flake, Coffee, and Licorice Root.

The possibilities are endless!

Eric

Next At Home: Paris 1906: Caneton Rouennais à la Presse

23 Wednesday Nov 2011

Posted by jethro in brining, combi oven, cookbook, curing, old school, recipes, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

Duck Press, Escoffier, Grant Achatz, Industrialist Cuisine, Next Restaurant, nitrogen cavitation, Paris, Tour D'Argent

Duck Press

Last week, Next Restaurant released its first in what I assume will be an endless series of digital cookbooks featuring the recipes of all the courses of each incarnation of the restaurant.  They are currently in the midst of their third iteration of the menu, called ‘Childhood’. Prior to that was a ‘Tour of Thailand’.  And before that, the opening salvo to their concept, ‘Paris, 1906’.

Why Paris in 1906?  Kinda random, right?  No, not for these guys.  As they state in the opening of their iCookbook:

Cesar Ritz and Auguste Escoffier opened the Ritz Hotel in 1906.  A new upper class thrived; visiting the Ritz, along with restaurants such as Maxim’s, became something more than just dinner.  Part fashion show and part social scene, the restaurant was now the entertainment.

Paris, 1906 — Escoffier at the Ritz was an easy choice as our opening menu at Next.

Ah, Escoffier.  As Heston Blumenthal said, “We eat how we eat because of Auguste”. They decided to go boldly into the future by acknowledging the past.  I, too, have a fondness for what I jokingly refer to as Industrialist Cuisine.  And there is one dish on their menu in particular that exemplifies the restaurant as entertainment theme circa 1906: Caneton Rouennais à la Presse.  Why? Because they used a big old brass contraption to press an entire duck to get at its juices.  Entertainment, indeed.
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Root Vegetables

15 Tuesday Nov 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in brining, dehydration, gels, hyrocolloids, pressure cooking, sous vide, starches, thickeners, vacuum sealing

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Cooking Blog, Food, Root Vegetables

 

Components:

Chioggia Beet – gel and pickled
Parsnip – centers sous vide and fried strands
Turkey Chicharrones
Cocoa Nib – cooked in sherry vinegar
Russian Blue Potato – steamed
Swiss Chard – pickled
Rutabaga – powdered
Rosemary – fried in potato starch
Pea Tendrils
Turkey Consomme (poured over once presented)

Eric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Modernist Cuisine At Home: Corn Bread with Bacon Jam

31 Wednesday Aug 2011

Posted by jethro in emulsions, MC at home, recipes, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

bacon jam, corn bread, evil, fat, isomalt, Modernist Cuisine, rotor-stator homogenizer, tamis

Corn Bread with Bacon Jam

I’m beginning to think that the authors of Modernist Cuisine are evil.  No, I’m not talking about the whole patent troll brouhaha.  I’m talking about the recipes.  Surely they are out to kill me.  Why would I say such a thing, you might ask?  Well, let me ask you: have you ever made their corn bread?  No?  And how about their bacon jam?  I see.  Let me try to explain.

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Beef Marrow, Beecher’s Veloute, Caramelized Cippolini, and Ciabatta

21 Tuesday Jun 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in brining, curing, gels, pressure cooking, sous vide, starches, thickeners, vacuum sealing

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Cheese, Cooking Blog, Dinner, Flowers, Food, Forage, Marrow, Morel, pressure cooker, Recipe

Additional ox tail/morel broth served table side.

Eric

Friday Night Cooking With Eric And Jethro

28 Saturday May 2011

Posted by jethro in gels, sous vide, vacuum sealing

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blueberry gelee, cherry coulis, copper river salmon, edible flowers, microgreens, plating

Eric And Jethro Cook For Your Pleasure

TGIF.  Thank God It’s Friday.  A long week, and now the beginning of the Memorial Day weekend.  So, what to do.  Camping?  Happy hour?  For Eric and Jethro, how about some cooking? Scott sadly had another engagement to attend.

There’s no specific agendas to our meet ups anymore.  Sometimes we watch food documentaries or go to restaurants.  This time, we just wanted to cook something and eat the thing.  We bandied about some ideas via text and started thinking about salmon wrapped in pork skin and deep fried.  The conversation continued:

Food Textin'

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The Price Of Cooking Modernist Cuisine, Part I: Tools And Gadgets

19 Thursday May 2011

Posted by jethro in blow shit up, centrifuge, combi oven, dehydration, liquid nitrogen, pressure cooking, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

dewar, digital scale, immersion blender, immersion circulator, induction cooktop, ISI ThermoWhip, Modernist Cuisine, pH meter, pressure cooker

“Modernist Cuisine” is not for most home cooks.
– Michael Ruhlman

“[Modernist Cuisine] looks cool and would be fun to flip through,” he said. “But I don’t need to spend six hundred dollars on a cookbook — I already know how to cook.” This led to my next question — in his opinion, were these techniques even appropriate for the home cook? “Sous vide is great for cooking vegetables and meat,” he replied. “But home-cooked meals are home-cooked for a reason. They’re meant for the home.”
– Domestic Divas

The truth is that this stuff is for the pros.
– New Yorker

Man, do these people bore me.  How uninspired. How defeatist.  How sad, pathetic, and totally lame.

0 To 60 in 90 Days

I started to cook in December 2009 – about 18 months ago.  I had no knife skills, didn’t know anything about Anthony Bourdain or Iron Chef, much less Mugaritz.  My refrigerator was empty save for old condiments.  I didn’t even notice the front right burner on my stove was larger than the others because I had never used it.

But once I started, I got way into it.  Within weeks, I had discovered avant-garde food.  By February 2010, I had ordered my first ‘molecular gastronomy’ kit and contacted Scott and Eric to form Jet City Gastrophysics. By March, I spherified my first liquids.  By August, I made the red cabbage gazpacho from The Fat Duck. And in October, just 10 months later, I began cooking from Modernist Cuisine, which wasn’t to be published for another five months.  I used their PDF excerpt.

Continue reading →

Duck Prosciutto Dish

12 Thursday May 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in curing, dehydration, emulsions, gels, hyrocolloids, maltodextrin, starches, thickeners, transglutaminase, vacuum sealing

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Blog, Cooking, Cooking Blog, Duck Prosciutto, Food

30 of these.

Eric

Modernist Cuisine At Home: Mushroom Omelet

28 Thursday Apr 2011

Posted by jethro in combi oven, MC at home, pressure cooking, recipes, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

marmalade, Modernist Cuisine, mushroom, Striped omelet

Striped Omelet

After I tackled the ham and cheese omelet last week from Modernist Cuisine, I was ready for the next step: their infamous striped mushroom omelet.  I had to go online and to four grocery stores to collect the ingredients necessary.  About $75 later I was ready to go.  This had better be a good omelet.

The Cast Of Characters

The Cast Of Characters

The recipe calls for several preparations: a brown chicken jus, which goes into a mushroom marmalade, a mushroom puree and the omelet base.  A scrambled egg foam was also made, but I ran out of N2O chargers for my cream whipper.  So the sous vide scrambled eggs sit sealed in my refrigerator until I can go to the store and pick some up.  We’ll skip that step.

Continue reading →

Nettles, Pear, Purple Asparagus, and Pickled Mustard Seed

13 Wednesday Apr 2011

Posted by ericriveracooks in dehydration, gels, hyrocolloids, sous vide, vacuum sealing

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Mustard Seed, Nettles, Pear

Eric

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